Travemünde – from fishermen village to seaside resort
Once a small fishermen’s village, Travemünde today is one of the popular beach resorts at the Baltic sea. It’s not as fashionable as Timmendorfer Strand but has this special atmosphere, a mixture of an English seaside resort and a German Belle Époque town. During the 1820th years, tourists from northern and eastern Europe traveled to the new opened Casino (today a 5*star hotel), during the 1920th sailing events like the Travemünder Woche and open air concerts were organized for the international audience, in the 1960th it was a VIP location for stars like Sophia Loren, Curd Jürgens and Onassis. With a little luck, one of the big sailing ships is in town and you might get to see handsome sailors, like these guys.
One day in Travemünde
While strolling through town you find stone witnesses from all periods: small fishermen’s houses, elegant Belle Époque Villen, the former Casino and the Maritim hotel from the 1970th, the by far highest building in the bay (the Café on the 30th floor allows a wonderful view).
The station Strandbahnhof (built in 1900) makes it easy to imagine how life was in these times – you just have to substitute the modern and functional dressed people withhat wearing Ladies in summer dresses. Every hour the train from Lübeck arrives and brings in sun hungry guests for the day, the train ride takes only 25 minutes from Lübeck main station
Foodie in Travemünde
Whereas there is a lot to see and experience, for traveling Foodies in Travemünde it’s not easy to find affordable, local food. Sunny and warm days make it easy: you go to Fisch Wöbke or the fish burger stall in the historic harbour and get a fish sandwich or fish salad, take it to the beach and enjoy it with a fresh and cold Flensburger or Astra beer, which you get at one of the kiosks. If you like contrasts, you should have a meal at Hein Mück and later a drink in the Cocktail bar of the Atlantic Gran Hotel – after that you will have an impression of the historic Travemünde and the fancy seaside resort. Cold and rainy days make it harder on Foodies in Travemünde: many of the restaurants are focused on tourists and serve international dishes of average quality. There are a few exemptions which you find on my foodie map Travemünde, like the Lucifer, Lieblingsplatz, Hein Mück and Leopold.
The peninsula Priwall
There is another part of Travemünde, a part which was behind the iron curtain for many years: the peninsula Priwall. Even today, almost 30 years after the reunion, you enter another world once you arrive with the ferry-boat at the Priwall. This part of the Priwall was no man’s land during the cold war and by driving the bumpy alley eastwards you reach the village of Pötenitz, which already belonged to eastern Europe and was strictly separated from the West.
Bike tour Travemünde – Priwall
If you happen to travel here during the warm season, this could be your perfect day in Travemünde: bring towel and swimming suit, buy picnic supplies at Wöbke/EDEKA, take the ferry-boat, rent a bike at Fahrradverleih Bruders and take the small shoreline bike path eastward. You bike in only 50 m distance to the Baltic sea and have access to the beach, every now and then you will pass a kiosk or bistro to get a snack, everything else is nature, surprisingly empty. Yes, hard to believe, empty! Not many people make the effort to cross the river Trave and even on sunny summer days, when Travemünde is crowded, the Priwall beach still is not highly frequented.
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